About Us!

Welcome to our page! We do our best to provide to-be and current bunny owners up-to-date info on the best care for their house rabbits. When we adopted our first bunny in 2005, there was almost nothing on the internet to tell us how to care for him. Just in the past few years, information has exploded online, and now it can be confusing! We try to simplify it by posting weekly articles on current issues, daily care, concerns, proper feeding, and other info so you can enjoy your house-bun! If you are just finding us, feel free to look through the older posts also. Please email us if you have any questions! Happy bunnies make happy hearts!
Email: thebunnyhut101@yahoo.com

Thursday, December 31, 2015

Bunny Proofing Your Home

Bunny chewing the coffee tableIn order to protect your house rabbit as well as your home you need to bunny proof. Rabbits love to dig and chew but need to do so in a nondestructive manner.
Providing many toys can help dissuade your rabbit from chewing on your belongings; when your bunny is occupied he/she will be less inclined to be destructive. Supervision is also key. Not only will your bunny love the attention, you can make sure your house doesn't fall apart.
Wire protectors Wires are one of the main targets of bunnies. Their sharp teeth can slice through your wires quickly, damaging your favorite lamp or worse, electrocuting your rabbit. It is best to cover wires with hard plastic sleeves or flex tubing. These can be purchased at any hardware, home improvement or electronics store. Even better is to keep all wires out of the reach of your bunnies.
When you look around the area your bunny will be residing in, do you see any places you don't want your bunny? Some bunnies can jump 36 inches or higher, and their curiosity brings them on top of shelves, chairs and desks.
They are also quite adept at squeezing into tight spaces, like behind your bookshelf or under your bed. You'll need to block off these areas. There are many options for this. Baby gates or puppy-pens work well, but ideally they should be made of metal, otherwise your bunny will chew his/her way through quite quickly. Watch out that the slats aren't too far apart, however, or else your rabbit will slip right through.
Rabbits are very curious creatures Bunnies are natural diggers and will dig anywhere they can, especially on your carpets. Any loose edges will be pulled and dug on until your carpet becomes a stringy mess. Tiles or untreated sea grass mats are good ways to cover areas that your bunny likes to chew. You can also arrange your furniture to cover spots your bunny frequently digs.
Eating the contents of the recycle bin Molding is frequently chewed by bunnies. You can purchase plastic guards, but the best option is to give your bunny plenty of other chew options, such as natural wicker baskets and various other chew toys. See How to Deal with Chewing & Digging for more options.
** http://www.myhouserabbit.com/tip_chewing.php

Houseplants can be dangerous to bunnies. Many plants are toxic to your bunny. It is best to keep any plants out of the reach of your bunny. Poinsettia, holly, tomato leaves, and tulips are among the plants toxic to your bunnies.
By bunny proofing your house, you'll provide a safe environment for your rabbit and protect your belongings. This will make both you and your bunny very happy.
* http://www.myhouserabbit.com/tip_bunnyproofing.php

Thursday, December 24, 2015

Building a Cardboard Castle for Your Bunny

uilding a cardboard castle for your pet bunny is an inexpensive way to keep him/her busy. Bunnies love to dig, chew, shred and arrange. These are all needs that a cardboard castle can address. A cardboard castle also provides a refuge for your bunny to escape the hustle and bustle of your house. Rabbit enjoying his cardboard castle
  • Cardboard boxes
  • Scissors or Utility Knife
  • Additional pieces of Cardboard
  • Optional cardboard tubes or untreated wood
The ideal box is large enough for your rabbit to move around in, but not so tall that he/she cannot jump onto the top to play as well. Remove any excess tape from the box as it can get caught in your rabbit's fur. To create the most simple castle use your scissors or utility knife to cut two or more openings in the box. The openings should be appropriately sized for your rabbit.
To create a more elaborate castle you can line the bottom of the box with extra pieces of cardboard or an old phone book to give your bunny more to dig. You can add a smaller box or paper towel tubes for your bunnies to push and rearrange. Cut additional pieces of cardboard to fit the inner walls. Secure these pieces by pushing untreated sticks of wood through the walls.
Rabbit near a cardboard tube Create a larger castle by combining two or more boxes of different shapes and sizes. A large box can be joined to a smaller box to create two rooms for your bunny to hang out in. You can add additional levels to the castle by securely placing one box on top of another. Add ramps for your bunny to climb to the next level.
Use your imagination and soon you'll have made your bunny's new favorite plaything.

Wednesday, December 23, 2015

Holiday Disapproving Rabbits


I said no peeking!


Nothing here for you. Move along.

Cadbury Benjamin

I'm scheming of a blight Christmas.


You did what to the cranberries!?


I'm thankful for so many... oh, you 
have four days off? Never mind.


It's for a come-as-your-human 
costume party! Get it!?


Miss Chunky

I've decided to give some promotions.
You now report directly to the litter box.

Saturday, December 19, 2015

Good & Bad Veggies

Good & Bad Veggies

The quickest way to managing a rabbit’s health is through his nutrition. With a proper diet digestive ailments like Gastrointestinal Stasis and obesity can be easily prevented.

Greens, Fruits, and Veggies

Acceptable Greens:

Baby Greens
Carrot/Beet tops
Blackberry Leaves
Wheat Grass
Brussels sprouts
Celery (leaves only)
Dandelion greens (and flower)
Swiss chard (any color)
Parsley (Italian or flat leaf best)
Romaine lettuce
Mustard greens*
Red/Green Leaf lettuce
Raspberry Leaves

*Very small amounts as these are high in calcium or very gassy
and bunnies have no way to release gas. 

Introducing greens will supplement your rabbit’s diet with vitamins and nutrients that might be lacking in his hay and pellets.

Acceptable Fruits:

Kiwi Fruit
Cactus fruit
Orange(no peel)

Rabbits have a natural sweet-tooth and will beg for your fruit salad. However, fruit contains a lot of sugar which doesn’t belong in the rabbit digestive tract and can cause obesity. Fruit can be fed occasionally in small amounts as a special treat. Try to limit fruit intake to 1 tablespoon a day.

Acceptable Veggies:

Green/red bell peppers
Bean or alfalfa sprouts Pea pods (flat, NO peas)

Edible Flowers:
Day lilies
Flowers should be organically grown and not bought from florists.


Water is a necessity to every living thing. Be sure to always have fresh and clean water available to your rabbit. Try to clean bowls and water bottles every couple of weeks to prevent the growth of any bacterium. Do not alter your rabbit’s water with flavors or medications as this may discourage them from drinking.


Thursday, December 17, 2015

Rabbits And Their Teeth - They Need a Dentist Too!

For Updated Post, see post dated 4/18/13

No Bark, All Bite

Anyone who’s found gnaw marks on the legs of their dining room table, or discovered a series of holes on the underside of their box spring, knows how powerful a tool bunny jaws can be. And while we might bemoan our rabbits’ tendency to chew on anything and everything, it’s important to realize how dental health affects your bunny in other ways.

Rabbits have 28 teeth, just like most humans, but they’re configured a little differently. The most visible teeth, the incisors, are the ones that can do the most damage. They’re designed to grab food and cut it, but they also grab and cut a lot of other things like telephone and electrical cords!

You’ll probably never see your rabbit’s back teeth, or molars. They do the hard work of grinding down the hay and veggies you feed your rabbit. In a healthy rabbit’s mouth, they also grind against each other, to maintain the proper length.

When the teeth don’t fit together properly, it’s called malocclusion. Malocclusion of the incisors can make it impossible for your bunny to eat. It’s relatively easy to examine the incisors by holding your rabbit gently and pulling her top lip back. Check to make sure the teeth are not loose or uneven, and that the gums are a healthy pink.

Molars can grow sharp spines, called spurs. You won’t be able to see this yourself, because those teeth are so far back. There are clues, however, that you can keep an eye out for. If your rabbit seems to be drooling, if there’s any swelling or pain at the jawline, or if you notice a sudden decrease in food intake, call your vet, who will look inside your bunny’s mouth with a tool called an otoscope.
Rabbit dentistry can fix a variety of tooth issues, but early detection is crucial. Have your rabbit’s mouth and teeth inspected by a bunny-savvy vet at least once a year, more often if she’s had problems in the past. And always provide your rabbit with safe objects to chew, like cardboard, untreated wood, and pinecones.

* http://rabbitsanctuary.wordpress.com/2012/10/03/no-bark-all-bite/#comment-234

Friday, December 11, 2015

Considering a Bunny as a Gift?

Costs of a Bunny...(video included)

Bunny Information

How Much does a Bunny Really Cost?

How Much does a Bunny Really Cost?

Do your Homework First Before you get Suckered in by Cuteness!

Don't let the the adorable face of a bunny sucker you in. Many people are surprised to find out how much a House Rabbit companion actually costs. Rabbits are usually inexpensive to get, but that doesn't mean they are cheap to keep!
Just basic one time purchases of supplies may cost $250, and the ongoing cost for one rabbit adds up to around $80/month ($960/year).  This does not include vet care for illnesses and emergencies which can be very expensive. 

We do offer money-saving tips, and there are ways to cut costs, however, if one of the reasons a rabbit appealed to you was the notion of a cheap pet, then I would take the time to reconsider. I can't count the times someone has posted in the forum about not being able to cover one cost or another.  So though there may be ways to cut costs, there are still ongoing expenses that can be hard on very tight budgets.  
Rabbits can live to be over 10 years old, so be ready for the a long-term financial commitment. The total costs are hard for many to believe, so we've broken it down so you can see how all the little stuff adds up. Find out if your pocket book is ready and check out the list of basic costs that go into proper care of one house rabbit. (if we've missed anything, be sure to Contact Us and let us know!)  

(Note: even some "One Time" purchases will eventually need replacing)
Cages/Pens = $150
(Average if using cubes or pens)
Most cages that are sold "for rabbits" are usually much too small for an adult rabbit, not to mention they can be double the average price above. According to the House Rabbit Society, cages/pens should be at least four times the size of your bunny - more if confined for large amounts of time each day.(Rabbits should get a LEAST three hours a day of free exercise time) Remember flooring too for your bunny! Even if you use a pen, you'll still want to have some sort of water proof flooring like sheet vinyl or chloroplast to make cleaning up easy.  See Housing Examples


Food & Water Dishes = $12 ($6 each)

Avoid the plastic cheap light-weight bowls. Rabbits will accidentally AND intentionally overturn those.

Replace plastic water bottles annually.

Basic litter Box ($6) & Scoop($3) = $9 
Litter boxes (found locally in dollar type stores) can go up in price dramatically with screens, covers and protective edge attachments (for the diggers!).  Also, at some point, they do become smelly even when cleaned regularly, so you will have to eventually replace it. I recommend a solid scoop since rabbit litter is not the kind that can be sifted (Never use clay, dusty,clumping type litters for rabbits)
Bargain Tip - Check out these Great Litter Box Ideas!


Hidey House = $12
Rabbits, being prey animals, like to to have hidey houses. This makes them feel safe and secure.   
Options include:
  • Make from safe woods (redwood is toxic to bunnies)
  • Get a plastic storage tub and cut TWO entry/exit holes in it. Be sure to sand off any sharp edges
  • Plain old  (non-dyed) cardboard can work too.
  • Purchase from the BinkyBunny Store 
Caution Note: If you use a pen, don't place a flat topped hidey house near the edge of an xpen, (doubles an escape launch pad).

Soft Bedding = $15
Make sure to have a flat surface and soft bedding in any cage/pen for a place to lounge. This can be anything from soft bedding from a pet store, a throw blanket, or a yard or two of fleece from a fabric store.
Caution Note: Some materials can shed fibers and cause serious digestive problems. Pull on the the material to check if fibers come loose easily.  Also some bunnies may eat the material.  You will need to switch to another type of bedding if that is the case.  (trial and error)
Toys = $15
Rabbits do play, and good rabbit toys cater to rabbity behaviors. Foraging, chewing, and exploring are top on the list. It's best to buy a few toys and alternate them to prevent boredom.
This will be more of a frequent replacement - may not be monthly, but at least every few months or so.
Bargain Tip - For some inexpensive homemade options check out our Bunny Toy Test.

Nail Care = $13.50
Nail Clippers   = 6.00  
Styptic Powder = 7.50

Learn how to clip nails in Monthly Maintenance



Brush and Comb = $6.00
It's important to keep rabbits groomed.  A once a week brushing (or more during molts) helps prevent digestive issues.
Our personal favorite is Hairbuster Comb

Cord Covers = $10
Rabbits will chew through cords which can cause damage to your stuff, fire hazards and can also seriously hurt your bunny!  Get your cords up and out of the way or cover them
There are many versions of cord covers. I use corrugated flexible tubing which you can find online or at your local hardware store.

Small Carrier = $25  
Carrier styles and prices vary greatly! - From the basic (left) to fancy, colorful, and even air-conditioned. 
Avoid using cheap cardboard carriers as a determined rabbit will chew right thru those in just minutes.      


One Time/Occasional TOTAL = $247.50

Hay = $15/month
Rabbits should have access to fresh hay available 24 hours a day. Hay is vital to your bunny's health. It provides the necessary fiber to move hair through the digestive system. Young rabbits under 7 months can have alfalfa.  Adult rabbits should get grass hays, like Timothy, Orchard, Oat and/or mixtures. The BinkyBunny Store provides a large variety of Hays.
Bargain Tip - If you live near a hay farm, you can save money by buying in large quantities and storing hay properly. Just make sure the hay you buy is for horses and small animals. Do not get cattle quality hay. Also note that it is not uncommon for hay in bulk to have a few dead crickets,and/or some debris, since the hay hasn't been sifted through smaller packages.  It is a natural product after all. So just sift as you go. Storing properly is very important: Hay needs to breathe to prevent mold.  A cardboard box or large laundry bag are best.  Plastic bins are okay if you get in and out of it a lot -- you can also drill a few holes throughout to allow for some airflow.
Where To Buy:
Greens/Veggies = $40/month 
 See Diet Page for appropriate amounts (avg 1.5 cups minimum daily)
 Greens should be slowly introduced at about 3 months old

Good & Bad Veggies:

Pellets = $4.50/month
(Based on 10# bag that should last a few months) 
Recommended Nutritional Value
Fiber 18% minimum (20 -25% best)
Fat 1 - 2% max
Protein 12 - 14% max (long-haired breeds may need higher)
Calcium 1% max   
Avoid pellets that have dried fruit, cereal, seeds & nuts

Where To Buy:

Litter = $20/month 

Bargain Tip: Horse stall pellets or Wood stove pellets usually $5-8 per 40lbs at Tractor Supply) are usually cheap and a great alternative to some of the more expensive litter brands. Just make sure the wood stove pellets do not have have accelerant added.

Some of my favorite litters include Aspen Supreme, Yesterdays News and Carefresh. (Carefresh is a soft litter - perfect for bunnies, like Rexes, that are prone to sore hocks.) 
Stay away from clumping & dusty cat litters, corn based, and pine shavings as these can cause serious health risks. (compressed pine pellets are okay)

Pet Friendly Cleaning Products = $2/month 
Unlike other free range animals, rabbits are many times limited to a particular space, so it is very important to use to rinse well eve
n with pet friendly cleaners.
Bargain Tip -  White Vinegar/Water (50/50) is wonderful in combating urine stains and odor. Rabbits urine can have a strong ammonia smell and the vinegar mix combats these very well!  However, since vinegar is very acidic, you will need an industrial plastic bottle otherwise you may find that an ordinary spray bottle's nozzle may stop working.

I find using both the vinegar mix and Nature's Miracle works helps prevent remarking. 



Vet Care
The likelihood of any pet needing vet care in their lifetime is high. Rabbits are no exception, and it can be very expensive.
(Check out this Forum Discussion about some actual vet costs members had to deal with). Remember, you are paying for the vet, not the pet.  Not to mention that you need to make sure your vet is rabbit-savvy.  You may be surprised to learn that rabbits are actually considered "exotic". A rabbit-savvy vet will have the extra schooling for "exotics" to treat rabbits.  The exotic title is due in part to  the the fact that rabbits react differently to anesthesia than cats and dogs. Also some treatments and antibiotics that would be safe for a cat or dog, can be deadly to rabbits. Dental issues are also common, especially in dwarf breeds, and this can be very expensive over time with regular check-ups, tooth trims, and/or surgeries.  This equals into hundreds to even thousands of dollars.    

Rabbit's hide illness very well, and by the time you notice something is wrong, it can be serious. Waiting to bring your bunny to the vet, due to lack of funds, can put your bunny at serious risk.  I recommend getting pet insurance (VPI covers rabbits $12/month). Be sure to save a few hundred dollars for emergency care. There are also credit cards, like "Care Credit",  that can only be spent on health care and vet care.    Not all vets take these, but many do - check with yours. For me this system works out well, as I can put the vet bill on the credit card, file a claim with the insurance, which normally pays out by the time my credit card is due.   Every little bit helps.

Lifesaver Note
- PLEASE get Emergency Vet references and figure out who is available around you that is ALSO an EMERGENCY vet. BEFORE an emergency ever happens.   It can be harder to find rabbit-savvy Emergency vets and rabbits can go downhill very quickly. You don't want to be spending precious time trying to do the search when your bunny may be fighting for its life.   Get a list of vet references, talk to them personally, and keep phone numbers and directions nearby so you can just focus on getting there in times of urgency.
Bargain Tip Adopt a bunny from a rabbit rescue or animal shelter.  Most are already spayed/neutered ($150 savings! --Can be even more depending on where you live).   And many shelters have already given their bunny a check-up and/or will give you a coupon for a free check up with in so many days after adoption)

The value of exercise, love and attention is priceless. Unlike cats or dogs who will verbally announce their dissatisfaction, a dissatisfied rabbit may act out or just sit in his cage all day.  Silence does not equal satisfaction. Rabbits need freedom, exercise and attention everyday.


Treats are definitely not a necessity, and you do have to be careful with how much you give a rabbit, but given in moderation, it's a great way to bond with your bunny. Plus, c'mon how many people don't give treats to their animal companions. It's a human thing! Just be sure to look for the healthiest possible.
Bargain tip: Fresh herbs like rosemary and mint and small amounts of fruit can make for a wonderful healthy treat.  Be sure to check the ingredients of store bought treats to make sure they are not too high in fat and sugar.

Grumpsters - Once in a blue moon, we get an email from an annoyed person who is upset by our cost estimates. Even with our Bargain Tips, they say they never spent much, and that they never had to worry about vet care. If that is true for you, consider yourself extra-thrifty, but extremely fortunate with health. This Cost Page was created because of our ongoing experiences with unprepared people who found themselves in an ethical dilemma due to being financially side-swiped, (especially when it comes to rabbit health and vet care). 
No one told them what proper care entailed or that vet care can be expensive. Telling someone that rabbits don't cost that much only has the potential to do more harm than good down the line.  Our focus will always be on the individuals responsibility for their animal companion regardless of where their rabbit came from. There are many people that can benefit from understanding that a rabbit costs more than what they paid for it. 

So if this didn't scare ya off, you might just be ready for the "cute" high.

Saturday, December 5, 2015

Bunnies & Scabies

 Burrowing Mites: Scabies

Sarcoptes spp. is encountered all over the world, though not with equal frequency. 
Rabbits in northern Europe and England are barely affected by burrowing mites.
In the US it varies from region to region. Burrowing mites present a zoonotic danger;  they can affect dogs, cats, and humans, causing a transient itching dermatosis. 
The burrowing mange Notoedres cati is observed in rare cases.These parasites spread rapidly from one rabbit to another, through nymphs and larvae that lie on the surface of the skin. 

Only the adult female will dig into the skin and make tunnels where it lay up to 5 eggs, with a maximum of 5 for its whole life. The larvae that hatch from those eggs live the first stages of their life in those tunnels. 
Only the adult males and older larvae live on the surface of the skin. 
The complete life cycle from egg to adult lasts about 2 to 3 weeks. This should be taken into account when treating a rabbit.
Sarcoptes scabiei Sarcoptes scabiei
   10 days after ivermectin injection.

Wounds appear first on the lips and nose, later around the head, neck, and sometimes around
the genitalia. Burrowing mites (mange) will lead to heavy scratching by the rabbit, which will
also lick the affected areas. This leads to alopecia (loss of fur). Often one can observe the
secretion of a watery stuff that forms crusts upon drying. Self-mutilation will lead to wounds
and secondary bacterial infection.
Severe infestation leads to anemia and leucopenia (decrease of white cells in the blood). The rabbit becomes lethargic and can die within a few weeks.

Mange is treated with 3 injections of ivermectin, one every 14 days. The environment should be
thoroughly cleaned, as the mite can survive for weeks without the presence of the rabbit host.
Sarcoptes scabieican infest dogs, cats, and humans. Wounds can be treated with benzyl
benzoate every 5th day.
When treating a carpet, vacuum first in order to further penetration of the spray or powder. Shampooing and steam cleaning are not ideal; their residual humidity can increase the mite problem.
During treatment of the environment, rabbits should be kept in another part of the home to avoid
the danger of contact with the products.

Story from Bunny Wonderland
 (Current news as of week of December 1, 2013.)

 Faith and Hope are adjusting well in their recovery home. This pair is amazingly close. We speculate they may be Mother & Son. As Hope is only 3 months old, we have decided to keep this pair together to provide support to each other as they heal. We will monitor their recovery closely and do our best to heal their scabies, their sore hocks, and their wounded hearts.

These photos show how bad their current condition is. Our hearts wrenched when we see them
in this shape. We truly hope more people realize how dangerous it is to leave small infection untreated and worse, throw them outdoor and let them suffer. These rabbits will end up going through a slow painful death. If you truly want an animal, please be responsible and keep them healthy. If they are sick, bring them to a good vet. We can't help wonder what was their owner thinking.. It's amazing how cruel this world can be.

Everyone, let's do our part in advocating responsible pet ownership. Educate those who don't know and help those who need help. Let's make this world a better place for our future. This world can seriously use a little more heart.

Today, we brought Hope & Faith to the vet for a medical checkup. The two rabbits are confirmed to have a severe scabies infection that requires at least 4 courses of weekly ivomectin injections.

Dec 2 2013 - Faith & Hope Rescue Mission
Faith & Hope had their second round of ivermectin injection today. It's only been 8 days and
look at how beautiful they are recovering!

Scabies is easy to treat and the medical cost is relatively l...ow. Please don't give up on them just because they got some mites. Keep your rabbits indoor or protect them using mite control (revolution) to prevent creepies from getting near!

Three cheers for Faith & Hope!
Hip hip Hooray!
Hip hip Hooray!
Hip hip Hooray!

About Bunny Wonderland:

Thursday, December 3, 2015

"Where Do I Buy Hay and Pellets?"

There are SO many choices where to buy hay, it can be too easy to just run in and grab what looks "pretty" and get out to get everyone home after that long day.
So, we made this list (from our own experience and local options) to hopefully help cut down on the wondering and save you some time and headaches!

                   1-2 Bunny Home:                       

PetSmart :
http://www.petsmart.com/ is our go-to for the Snack Shaks as well as Kaytee Timothy hay and Oxbow Timothy Pellets. We get Kaytee hay since the bags are
bigger and they really cram a lot in there The hay last a LONG time, so no worries if you have a slow eater. The Oxbow brand Adult (since our buns are older) has been the favorite and has not changed the ingredients over the years like Kaytee has without warning, so we go with what saves us vet bills!!

If you have a chewer, these are wonderful busy toys. Our Rex is notorious for this and she also has been prone to GI Stasis and has NO issues whatsoever over the past year. She only takes 2-3 weeks to chew one to nothing.

Snack Shak link- http://www.petsmart.com/small-pet/food/ecotrition-trade-snak-shak-trade-

PetCo :
is not our first choice, only because they tend to be higher on hay and pellets where we live, and we have to be careful that the hay hasn't already turned brown, which means it has been there in the lights for some time. Its an emergency stop for us.

                     3-5 Bunny Home:                     

You get to choose depending on how much you buns can actually go through as far as hay, where would be the best as far as what works best for your budget. Our buns can eat some hay, and really, more is good to prevent GI Stasis of course. But there are always those picky eaters out there!
For the picky eaters, follow the 1-2 Bunny Home guidelines above, and you should be fine.
For those mega-eaters, like our bunch, these are the two main places we will go between depending on who has the sale going on.
** (Keeping in mind, Foster & Smith will be the only ones to sell the bigger bags of Oxbow Timothy pellets. So, of we need both hay and pellets, we will go with them and grab the papaya treats, Timothy hay cubes, and roll through the sale items too.)

Tractor Supply Co.:
 To get Timothy hay here, it is MUCH CHEAPER for 50 LBS than ordering online, and its great quality and stays fresh.  

Have a plastic bin to dump into and pull apart, because it is very compact! We pay $17 compared to $55-68 online, but when they are out, you do what you have to for those mega-eaters!

Timothy cubes in bulk:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/standlee-hay-certified-premium-alfalfa-timothy-grass-cube-40-lb Yes, its says "Alfalfa/Timothy Cubes", but apparently they don't sell just Timothy anymore, but as treats, drive the bunnies crazy and its been much better than constant sweets.

**For Timothy pellets in large amounts, you are best to order online as below:

Foster & Smith:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=6067+17311+17281&pcatid=17281 - Free shipping over $49

Oxbow Timothy Hay: With our heavy hay eaters, even when they cut back a bit, this hay stays good for a long time since its in a box, then plastic. It has never molded and actually never turned brown on us even having it a couple of months in the garage!

Oxbow Pellets: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=16618
We order the largest bag of pellets offered. It has never gone bad on us, but with the number of bunnies we have and 1/4 cup per bunny a day, it actually can go faster than you think!

Papaya Treats: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=8370
These are great during shedding and molting. Papaya helps push that nasty hair on through!

Timothy Cubes: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=6278
Our bunnies think the cubes ARE treats, so these are great!

http://www.pet360.com/product/3813/oxbow-western-timothy-hay  is a good place for the 50lb hay when its on sale and Foster and Smith isn't, so we check both sites if that's all we need and Tractor Supply is out.

You will be out of luck on Oxbow pellets and healthy treats here, so hay is about it, but if you have a dog or cat, there's free shipping on orders over $79.

                       5+ Bunny Home:                    

Well if you are one of the many homes with a large group, definitely go by the 3-5 Bunny Home Guide and look for that Tractor Supply Co. for the Hay and Foster and Smith for pellets! We have been here and anyone with free shipping is a MUST online.

We have found unpacking those big boxes of hay into large plastic tubs with w loose cover in our bunny room has been the best thing for freshness, and keeping the box

in the room to refill as needed. What little time we have ever stored in our garage has been in winter, otherwise its upstairs in the extra rom with AC just in case.
Pellets, the same thing. We haven't had an issue yet.

If you have a grocery that offers a store card to allow a cheaper price for romaine like Kroger, take advantage of that and make the trip. It is worth it. Our Wal-Mart has awful romaine through the winter and part of the summer. Kroger has the largest bunches I have ever seen we can get for 99 cents with the card.

Find every little thing like this you can to save when you have a "hoard", like we call ours! LOL We also call them "moochers" when Spring hits and they seem to eat everything in sight in 90-nothing! ha ha

We hope these ideas have helped or helped give you ideas for you own local areas as where to look for supplies!



Quality hay and pellets, why Timothy is better:

Papaya for GI Stasis:

GI Stasis: