About Us!

Welcome to our page! We do our best to provide to-be and current bunny owners up-to-date info on the best care for their house rabbits. When we adopted our first bunny in 2005, there was almost nothing on the internet to tell us how to care for him. Just in the past few years, information has exploded online, and now it can be confusing! We try to simplify it by posting weekly articles on current issues, daily care, concerns, proper feeding, and other info so you can enjoy your house-bun! If you are just finding us, feel free to look through the older posts also. Please email us if you have any questions! Happy bunnies make happy hearts!
Email: thebunnyhut101@yahoo.com

Friday, April 29, 2016

Not Good....Trancing / Hypnotising rabbits (Tonic immobility)

first published on May 12, 2010 by bunnyhugga

Tonic Immobility (TI) is a state of motor inhibition that can occur in prey animals as a last defense against a predator, therefore it is stressful to rabbits and is not recommended...

Tonic immobility (TI) is a state of motor inhibition that can occur in prey animals as a last defense against a predator.  The rabbit will lie motionless, thereby giving the impression of being already dead and encouraging the predator to release its grip, giving the rabbit a last chance to escape.  This state of temporary hypnosis can be induced in domestic rabbits by laying the rabbit on its back (dorsal recumbency) and flexing the head against the neck; as long as the head remains flexed the rabbit remains in the same position.

Rabbits in dorsal recumbency show a drop in blood pressure, heart rate and respiratory rate along with a depression of spinal reflexes and the abolition of the righting reflex.  There is also a reduced response to noise and painful stimuli.  According to a study by Danneman et al, 1988, tonic immobility cannot be induced in approximately 25% of rabbits.

TI is commonly referred to as "trancing" or hypnotizing rabbits and in the past has been commonly used by vets and rabbit owners as an easy way of examining a rabbit or clipping its nails.  It was previously thought to relax the rabbit but this has been discredited in recent years, with studies (in particular, a 2007 study by McBride et al) showing increased heart rate and respiration following an episode of TI .  In addition, after TI a rabbit's behavior may be adversely affected in that it hides away more, grooms itself more and shows less inclination to explore.  The more often it is done and the longer the rabbit is "tranced" for, the worse the effects.

**Our vet has seen a noticeable decline in GI Stasis in the regular bunnies she sees now that the owners have stopped trancing their bunnies. (Rhonda - The Bunny Hut)

Although trancing is still a debated subject, with many rabbit owners advocating it as a useful tool, it is commonly accepted that TI should be avoided where possible as it is detrimental to the rabbit's health.    In the UK most rabbit experts, welfare organizations and vets caution against the use of TI or recommend it is only used as a last resort; for example, when a vet is examining a very nervous rabbit and other means of restraint have failed.

If the bunny flops himself over on his side or back, that is totally different, and has not shown to cause issues. No need to run up to Bunny yelling! He is just happy and comfortable. 

If nail trimming for you and your bunny is an issue, try this common technique. Typically this will work, especially if the bunny has some greens to munch on during the trimming!


Thursday, April 28, 2016

How To Build A Rabbit Condo!

Our most popular post to date is how to build the inside NIC rabbit condos. They are by far the most versatile way we have found to house any size rabbit and even add "hidie areas" or ramps to make it more interesting or challenging for the busiest bunny.

Here is the video that will show you the best way to assemble your condo:


The cubes can be found at Target for about $19 a box, and zip-ties in large pack very cheap at Lowes or Home Depot. You will easily use 500, so get plenty! That is also where you can find the wood, wheels, and other materials you may need, PLUS the people to cut the wood for you! THAT is the best part and it makes taking the wood home easier too!
We have made a number of these in many sizes, so if you need one for two bunnies, just add on another block section long! You can make them to custom fit any space you have!


Basic One-Bun condo, three ramp design as in video

Four Story with X-Pen 'Yard'


 Two Story with Coroplast flooring


 Long Two One Story with shelf and under-storage

Split-Level design for four bunny nighttime housing with shelves.

Detailed sites on HOW-TO:
1. This is an excellent site on how-to! They use dowels and pvc instead of 1" x 2" wood
for support beams, but they work the same.

2. This site have some close up details as well as the video on our site fro reference.

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Ear Mites in Rabbits- Contains pictures that may be distressing for some people.

 Some big and small cases of ear mites, what they look like and what is done to get rid of them.

As many of our rescue friends are having new rabbits come to them, the rabbits will often have ear mites. Sometimes these cases are very bad, to the point they don't know if the rabbit will make it.  What is going on when this happens and what does it look like? What should we look for? Will my rabbit get this?

 Rabbits kept outside are likely to come in contact with ear mites. Ear mites are not likely to be serious, but left untreated, they can lead to infection and deafness.

Here is the rabbit mite...Yuck! Can I say, NO LOVE!

 The ear mite is a parasite, known under the name of Psoroptes cuniculi. they are a member of the arachnid family, which includes spiders and scorpions! (At least for me, again YUCK!) The average life span of an ear mite is 21 days.

Symptoms and clinical signs

Itching ears, frequent shaking of the head, and scratching up to the stage of auto-mutilation. In the beginning, small, tightly adherent skin scales appear deep in the ear canal and the earlobes and are surrounded by alopecic (balding) regions. Those yellow-gray scales can become rather thick. They carry large numbers of the parasite, mite feces, skin cells, and blood

 Over the next day or two the waxy build up will become scab-like or flaky in its appearance. Your rabbit will also have several scratch marks in his ear.

 If no treatment is started at this stage, the scales will grow into crust and may reach a thickness of 2 cm in extreme cases. The ear is no longer able to stand up, and droops. The scales/crust should not be removed; if removed, they leave bloody eroded skin. The crust will fall off within 10 days after the first administration of oral or injected ivermectin. Earlier removal is also very painful, and may lead to screaming.

Treatment (See an exotic vet! Bunny will likely need something for pain.)

The scales/crust should never be removed !!!

Removing them is horribly painful to the rabbit, leading to screaming (see video). 

Ear mites are effectively eliminated by avermectins:

    Ivermectin: 400 mg/kg, PO (oral) or SC (subcutaneous injection), 3 times at intervals of 14 days (life cycle of Psoroptes cuniculi is 21 days); 200 mg/kg has been found ineffective.

    Selamectin: Revolution® (US) or Stronghold® (Europe) - Pfizer, 6-18 mg/kg. A single topical (local) dose should be sufficient; if not, repeat after 30 days. If the affected rabbit presents severe anemia, a transfusion of blood can be attempted from a healthy donor rabbit.

    Moxidectin (Quest® or Equest® - Fort Dodge). Secondary effects have not been observed when the medication was administered orally, on the contrary to subcutaneous administration.

These avermectin compounds are non-ovicidal (will not kill the eggs), but the drug remains in the tissue long enough to kill the larvae that emerge from the eggs. Ivermectin diluted in mineral oil, applied directly on the ear, is less effective than injected or oral ivermectin. 


 Very good video: WARNING TO SENSITIVE VIEWERS: Bunny shown has very bad ear mites and is in vet office, does make scream, but is treated very well. Do not be shocked. Bunny heals wonderfully at end and is beautiful. INFORMATION IS A REALLY GOOD.



This bunny came into Red Barn Rescue in Oregon in February this year. The transformation in Nutmeg so far is amazing. She is an inspiration to us all.

Complete MediRabbit info found at:


Sunday, April 24, 2016

Common X-Rays of Bunnies

 These are some of the common x-rays of your bunny if you go in for any issues with stasis or gas issues.  
Also included are some to show the delicate bone structure, which are amazing.

 Normal rabbit x-ray seen from the side view.

Stomach full of food that has dried with hair...(what can happen during moulting season causing stasis). Cecum is empty here. (side view)

 A view of the distended stomach full of food and hair.

Intestines filled with gas from digestion process.

Total stasis. Cecum filled with gas, stomach fully distended. Day before surgery.

Rabbit suffering from respiratory distress. Mass leads to dorsal displacement of heart and lungs.

   Arrow shows where the spine is fractured.

A look at the delicate rabbit pelvis.

Other x-rays can be seen at:

Protecting Your House From Your Bunny!

So you're going to have a house bunny eh? Well good for you. There are a number of steps you will have to take to ensure that your home, or the part of it that you will allow your bunny to roam in is safe for both your bunny and your possessions.

Number One: Cord Clips/Cord Covers
These two items will come in very handy for keeping your electrical cords away from your bunny's sharp teeth. Bunnies do tend to chew on cords, and there are numerous theories for this, one is that they are attracted to the electrical current, and another is that the rabbit treats your precious cords much like tiresome roots growing through its burrow. Whatever the reason, you will need to take special care to keep cords well away from your rabbit. Run them under the carpets, cover them, or use clips to hold them up higher than bunny can reach. (See 'Indoor Cage Options" for link to getting cord covers in 10' lengths cheap!)

Although the most persistent bunny can chew through most cord covers unless it is PVC piping, we have been using this type. We got 100 feet an it has been all we needed through 8 bunnies.
The item description is still good if auction has ended. Another one starts under same description and price.


Item Number Two: Houseplants
Most common houseplants are toxic to bunny, so make sure that they are well out of the way. On counter tops, desks, wherever your bunny cannot reach them. Unfortunately rabbits really have no idea what is good for them and what isn't, so they tend to just chew on anything that they come across. Save your houseplants and your rabbit by keeping them well out of one another's way.


Item Number Three: Exits!
Although you are giving your bunny some serious freedom, you will also need to make sure that there are no easy access exits available to him or her. Pet doors, and doors that open to the outside should be closed and carefully watched if your bunny is in a room with them. Ideally, having a door between your bunny and the front door is a good idea.

Item Number Four: Litter boxes
Your bunny may return to his or her cage to do the business at hand, or it may seek out a quiet corner. Make sure that your bunny always has the litter box of their choice available to them or you may discover that bunny has picked your carpet as a new litter box, which is most unpleasant indeed.


Item Number Five: Space
How much space is too much space? You might want to consider only letting your rabbit have the run of a room or two. Having unsupervised run of a whole house, especially if you have an active family can be disastrous for bunnies who have a natural tendency to both get underfoot and streak across walkways with little to no warning. Either have a more contained area for your bunny to roam in, or ensure that you always supervise your rabbit when it is out of the cage.


NIC Cage                                                X-Pen cage

How to Build your own!

** http://bunniez.hubpages.com/hub/House-Bunny-Care-Guide-How-To-Bunny-Proof-Your-Home

Saturday, April 23, 2016

Quality Hay & Pellets for Bunny

Timothy Hay

Hay is good for your rabbit because those long fibers that hay is made from help the muscles of the bunny's gut stay good and strong. Hay keeps things moving inside the bunny's system, and can help prevent blockages that may kill your rabbit.Bunnies will chew on almost anything, they seem to have little concept of what they can digest and what they cannot digest. Keeping them well stocked with hay may also help to keep the fur and other weird foreign bodies moving through your rabbit's complex digestive system. A lack of hay can slow down your rabbit's intestinal functions and cause a multitude of problems. Hay is an essential part of your rabbit's diet, and you should no more leave your bunny without hay than you would leave it without water.

Rabbits need lots of fiber, and hay provides it to them. A good quality hay should not be too expensive, and is really essential for your rabbit's health and well being.


Not only is hay necessary for good digestive health, it also wears down rabbits' teeth, which continuously grow. Regular hay consumption helps prevent rabbits from developing sharp hooks on their teeth known as molar spurs. Molar spurs can be very painful, causing rabbits to stop eating. Once this happens, GI stasis can occur.

Is all hay equal?

NO! All hay is not equal. Like cereals, there are those that are good for you, and those that are tasty. Ideally, you should be feeding your bunny on the bran equivalent hay, timothy hay.

Timothy hay (for adult bunnies) is the most popular rabbit feeding hay, and probably the easiest for you to obtain, but oat hay, wheat hay and bahia hay are all also okay.
Alfafa and Clover hays (for very young bunnies) are tastier to your rabbit, but contain a great deal of calcium and protein, neither of which your bunny needs in large amounts.

You may be offered a choice between first and second cut hay. Once again, first cut is better for your bunny and his teeth, but second cut is tastier. It's up to you to make the tough call.

That's it for this time bunny lovers. Be sure to make sure that your bunny gets plenty of hay, and he or she is sure to be a happier and healthier bunny for it!

The horse, rabbit, gorilla and others have a single stomach and a gigantic cecum (huge blind pouch) which contains billions of bacteria and participates in digestion.

Herbivores don’t have canine teeth, and they don't exactly chew. They rip grass and forages with their flat front teeth, and then their jaws move side to side as the molars grind the plant forages into a pulp. Herbivores browse and graze all day long, every day, in order to take in enough forage to subsist on.

 Timothy Pellets
Speaking of diet, MANY people are not aware of the dangers of some commercially available "treats" and pellets. The following are dangerous and unhealthy for bunnies: yogurt drops (buns don't need dairy); seed sticks, nuts, dried corn/corn cobs. As for pellets, ANY "party mix" pellets that include artificially colored bits, dried fruit, corn, nuts, and other goodies are NOT good for your bunny - no matter what the advertising on the bag says. It would be the equivalent of feeding your child Lucky Charms, Grape Soda, and Donuts every day. 
 We feed our bunnies the following every day: 1) small amount (1/4 cup per 4 pound of bunny) of Oxbow Bunny Basics T pellets (or Zupreem) ; 2) Unlimited, fresh Timmy hay; 3) Two or three cups of fresh, dark leafy veg. The best treats are the most inexpensive: a small piece of the apple you are eating; a 1/4" sliver of banana, half of a grape, etc. 
 Remember: a rabbit is a lagomorph, not a rodent or a primate. The rabbit digestive tract is physiologically more similar to that of a horse than to that of a rodent or primate, and the intestine and related organs can suffer from an overindulgence in starchy, fatty "party mixes", "gourmet" or "treat" mixes filled with dried fruit, nuts and seeds.  These may be safe for a bird or hamster--BUT THEY ARE NOT PROPER FOOD FOR A RABBIT. The sole function of "rabbit gourmet treats" is to lighten your wallet. If the manufacturers of "gourmet rabbit treats" truly cared about your rabbit's health and longevity, they would not market such products. 
Check the Guaranteed Analysis of your rabbit feed:

Crude Protien – Between 13-17% for most rabbits. Too much protein can lead to excessive cecal production, and high ammonia in the cecum and urine. Long-haired rabbits, large rabbits, and rabbits kept outside need higher protein.
Crude Fat Minimum – Between 1-5%.
Crude Fiber Minimum– At least 16-18%.
Calcium Minimum – Around 0.5%
Calcium Maximum – Around 1.0%
Phosphorus Minimum – Around 0.4%
Salt – Between 0.5 – 1%
Vitamin A – 4500-5000 IU
Vitamin D – Not more than 2000 IU

Don't feed your rabbit cookies, crackers, nuts, seeds, breakfast cereals (including oatmeal) or "high fiber" cereals. They may be high fiber for you, but not for your herbivorous rabbit, who's far better able to completely digest celluose ("dietary fiber") than you are. Fed to a rabbit, the high fat and simple carbohydrate content of "naughty foods" may contribute to fatty liver disease, cecal dysbiosis, obesity, and otherwise cause health problems. 
Available at PetSmart 

Signs of GI Stasis
If your rabbit is demonstrating any of these symptoms of GI stasis, bring him/her to a rabbit-savvy vet immediately:
Small and/or malformed fecal pellets
No fecal pellets   
Loss of appetite
Lethargy / hunched posture


http://bunniez.hubpages.com/hub/Bunny-Care-Guide-The-Importance-Of-Feeding-Hay-To- Rabbits



Hay Rack Ideas

Thursday, April 21, 2016

Bunny Proofing Your Home

In order to protect your house rabbit as well as your home you need to bunny proof. Rabbits love to dig and chew but need to do so in a nondestructive manner.
Providing many toys can help dissuade your rabbit from chewing on your belongings; when your bunny is occupied he/she will be less inclined to be destructive. Supervision is also key. Not only will your bunny love the attention, you can make sure your house doesn't fall apart.
Wire protectors Wires are one of the main targets of bunnies. Their sharp teeth can slice through your wires quickly, damaging your favorite lamp or worse, electrocuting your rabbit. It is best to cover wires with hard plastic sleeves or flex tubing. These can be purchased at any hardware, home improvement or electronics store. Even better is to keep all wires out of the reach of your bunnies.
When you look around the area your bunny will be residing in, do you see any places you don't want your bunny? Some bunnies can jump 36 inches or higher, and their curiosity brings them on top of shelves, chairs and desks.
They are also quite adept at squeezing into tight spaces, like behind your bookshelf or under your bed. You'll need to block off these areas. There are many options for this. Baby gates or puppy-pens work well, but ideally they should be made of metal, otherwise your bunny will chew his/her way through quite quickly. Watch out that the slats aren't too far apart, however, or else your rabbit will slip right through.
Rabbits are very curious creatures Bunnies are natural diggers and will dig anywhere they can, especially on your carpets. Any loose edges will be pulled and dug on until your carpet becomes a stringy mess. Tiles or untreated sea grass mats are good ways to cover areas that your bunny likes to chew. You can also arrange your furniture to cover spots your bunny frequently digs.
Eating the contents of the recycle bin Molding is frequently chewed by bunnies. You can purchase plastic guards, but the best option is to give your bunny plenty of other chew options, such as natural wicker baskets and various other chew toys. See How to Deal with Chewing & Digging for more options.
** http://www.myhouserabbit.com/tip_chewing.php

Houseplants can be dangerous to bunnies. Many plants are toxic to your bunny. It is best to keep any plants out of the reach of your bunny. Poinsettia, holly, tomato leaves, and tulips are among the plants toxic to your bunnies.
By bunny proofing your house, you'll provide a safe environment for your rabbit and protect your belongings. This will make both you and your bunny very happy.
* http://www.myhouserabbit.com/tip_bunnyproofing.php


Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Here Comes The Heat!

 Timing Bunny's Outdoor Playtime in the Spring to Summer

While spring is still in the air throughout most of the northern hemisphere, temperatures are on the rise and bunnies left outside or given their "outside play time" are at great risk of heat stroke.
Please remember any temperature over 80-85 degrees can be deadly to rabbits so if it's warming up where you are, take bunny outside in the early morning hours for his or her supervised outside time.

Once the thermometer hits 80 degrees coupled with the warm spring sun, tragedy can strike within minutes dependent upon the breed, color and age of your bunny. 

Indoor play time can be just as satisfying for your bun so make some great cardboard houses, find some seagrass mats for bun to chew and dig on and spend time on the floor with your bun and a variety of toys to keep him or her entertained and you two bonded. It's never worth the risk to expose your bunny to warm temperatures so take precautions and move the party inside this time of year. Bun will thank you for it!

 (This is called Bun-Therapy at our house!
   Apparently this guy has just started his. LOL)

** https://www.facebook.com/bhrabbitrescue

Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Pineapple and Papaya: possible life savers during shedding!!

I highly recommend getting your rabbit(s) accustomed to dried Papaya and fresh pineapple. Many people believe that enzymes found in pineapple and papaya help break down the fur that a rabbit ingests. This is one of those things that have been neither proven nor discredited and there’s debate upon it’s effectiveness even among vets, but at the very least, rabbits love both fruits.
If you like fresh pineapple you’re in luck, because rabbits are very happy to eat the fibrous core that humans generally avoid. Remember to only give your rabbit no more than a teaspoon or a tablespoon of pineapple during any given day. Too much fruit will cause diarrhea.
Lacking the ability to vomit, rabbits can’t cough up fur balls the way cats can. As a result, fur can build up and cause potentially fatal blockages. This can result in Gastrointestinal or GI Stasis. Not all cases of GI Stasis start with blockages and it’s possible that some blockages are caused by GI Stasis. The exact relationship between a blockage and Stasis is uncertain, but avoiding fur buildup is a good idea regardless.
This is also why frequent brushing is necessary, particularly during the major shedding periods.

 Dried Papaya                                          Peter's Treats and Papaya Tablets available at PetSmart  
                                                                                         or online at Foster & Smith