About Us!

Welcome to our page! We do our best to provide to-be and current bunny owners up-to-date info on the best care for their house rabbits. When we adopted our first bunny in 2005, there was almost nothing on the internet to tell us how to care for him. Just in the past few years, information has exploded online, and now it can be confusing! We try to simplify it by posting weekly articles on current issues, daily care, concerns, proper feeding, and other info so you can enjoy your house-bun! If you are just finding us, feel free to look through the older posts also. Please email us if you have any questions! Happy bunnies make happy hearts!
Email: thebunnyhut101@yahoo.com

Sunday, March 27, 2016

Body language of rabbits

Understanding a rabbit's body language and common postures is helpful in building a relationship with your rabbit...

If you live closely with a rabbit for any length of time, you will notice certain postures that they adopt on a regular basis.  Some of these can mean several things; for example, sitting up on the hind legs could mean "I am looking around for danger" or "I want some food" or "open that door for me".  Furthermore, every rabbit is different and may therefore communicate slightly differently.

Sitting like a ball with legs tucked in or front toes just showing, ears at rest or half up and eyes half closed - the "loaf"
Your rabbit is sleeping or dozing.  Rabbits can sleep with their eyes open but some rabbits may twitch their eyelids and droop their heads when sleeping.

 Lying on tummy with legs stretched out behind or to the side, head up or stretched out with chin on the ground, ears at rest
Your rabbit is relaxing, doing nothing in particular.  It may have just filled its tummy with food and be happily digesting it

Rolling on back or side with legs in the air and eyes sometimes closed - the "bunnyflop"
Your rabbit is extremely relaxed and happy.  It may have just finished a good meal, be enjoying a patch of sunshine or is relaxing after a good grooming session


Sitting up with weight on bottom, forelegs stretched, ears up and looking alert - the "classic" rabbit pose
Your rabbit is looking around to see what's going on, usually thinking about what to do next and is often a prelude to grooming.  It may be rocking slightly due to its weight being balanced on its four feet close together


Standing with weight on all four feet, nose and ears stretched forward and tail protruding behind.
Your rabbit is curious about something and wants to investigate


Sitting with weight on bottom, washing face with front feet, pulling ears down to lick them, twisting around to groom back and sides
No prizes for this one - your rabbit is grooming itself


Leaning back with its nose buried in its bottom, then sitting upright again and chewing
Your rabbit is taking soft cecal droppings from its bottom and eating them - this is perfectly normal


Standing frozen with weight equally on all four legs in a braced stance, ears straight up and eyes wide open
Your rabbit has heard something and is waiting to see if it is dangerous.  May be followed by....

 Thumping back leg hard on ground and dashing away to hide
Your rabbit has identified danger in the vicinity and is scared


 Sitting up on hind legs with ears up and nose pointed up
Wild rabbits do this just to get a better view and have a look around for possible danger.  Domestic rabbits are more likely to be requesting food that you are holding or trying to get your attention


Laying head flat on ground
Your rabbit is showing submission to you or another rabbit and may be requesting petting or grooming


Shaking ears followed by scratching inside them with a hind foot
Your rabbit may have hair in its ears after a grooming session and be trying to get rid of it.  If frequent, could indicate ear mites.


Shaking ears followed by a little hop or jump
Your rabbit is inviting you to play or is excited about something, for example if you are about to feed it


Nudging your hand, leg or foot forcefully
Tricky one - if you are stroking your rabbit, it may be asking you to stop.  But, if you have just stopped stroking it, it may be asking you to continue.  If you are just minding your own business and your rabbit nudges you lightly, it is probably trying to get your attention or is requesting food

Digging or biting at your feet
Your rabbit may be trying to get your attention or be asking you to move your feet out of its way


Turning its back on you or moving away, flicking hind feet out behind it
Your rabbit is annoyed with you for doing something it disapproves of, such as cleaning out its litter tray or clipping its nails

Footnotes and further reading:

Friday, March 25, 2016

Benefits of the Bunny Massage

No animal is more suited for massage than your house rabbit. Bunnies are prone to stress related illness and can be difficult to handle during grooming sessions and Veterinary visits.Their innate fear of being lifted and confined can be lessened with regular massages. Here are some quiet-time touch tips to help you turn a devilishly grumpy Thumper into Thumper the purring lil' Angel.

1. First consider your bunnies' natural activity schedule. Most rabbits are more alert and thus more receptive to massage advances in the morning or evening hours. Wait at least 30 minutes after your rabbit's main meal and, because rabbits are very sensitive to smells, thoroughly wash your hands with fragrance free soap. Experiment until you find the most comforting place for the massage session. I find that for the unaccustomed bunny a tabletop with a towel placed over a non-slip mat works best. You may prefer a rug on the floor. More than likely, "Bunny with Rabbitude" will choose the spot for you. Tune into your rabbit's unique body language. Relax your arms and shoulders, calm your mind, and breathe! Massage should be fun for both of you. 

2. Mutual trust develops slowly. Your bunny WILL notice the difference between intentioned touch and simple petting. Start with a few minutes and work up to longer massages.
3. Next, stroke gently between the nose, around the eyes and down the back of the head. Softly stroke the ears from the base to the tips holding the ear very lightly between your thumb and index finger. 
4. Once bunny has settled in, begin making dime-sized circles down the left side of the spine. Use your thumb to create clockwise circles in the soft area just beside the spine. Work gradually from shoulder to hip being careful to use light pressure only. 
5. If Bun-Bun is enjoying your touch time, progress to light stroking around and down the legs, across each side of the chest, and farther back on the hip area.
Full Article:

 Best way To Detect Health Issues
One of the best things you can do for your bunny is pet him or her from the tip of the ears to the tip of the toes on a regular basis. These full body scans are important elements of comprehensive home care and empower you, as bun mom or dad, to work in partnership with your rabbit-savvy vet by identifying unusual lumps, growths or abnormalities. Oftentimes we will pet our buns along their head, neck and perhaps their back but rarely do we do whole body scans to feel for anything unusual or abnormal.  Providing your bun with a regular check once a week (although many humans will check their buns daily) will help keep him or her healthier longer because you will come to know the idiosyncrasies of your bun's physical body and be better able to find that "strange lump" should it develop. While many abscesses can take weeks to develop, others can pop up overnight, and tumors can go unnoticed for long periods of time. We all know the quicker your bun can get in to the vet for diagnosis and treatment, the better the outcome. So...pet a bunny daily to ensure his or her health and well-being! You'll both be so glad you did!

**Brambly Hedge Rabbit Rescue    http://bhrabbitrescue.org/index.html

Wednesday, March 23, 2016

Bunny Commitment Lasts Longer than Easter Sunday....

Don't get me wrong folks, I'm a huge fan of bunnies, I have seven of my own. Rabbits are delightful, sweet, inquisitive little pets that can be extremely rewarding to keep, however a great deal of time and effort is needed if you want to have a good relationship with a bunny. So if you're not familiar with rabbits and thinking as getting one as a pet for you or someone else, then read on.

ONE: Commitment. Giving someone a rabbit essentially means giving them a 5 + year commitment. If they look after the rabbit well and it is spayed, possibly a lot longer. This sort of commitment can be problematic for the person receiving the little fuzzy ball of bunny that looked oh so cute in the shop window.

TWO: It's not as easy as it looks. Many people have next to no idea about how to keep a rabbit. Most people who don't own rabbits, or who even do own rabbits but never bothered to learn about them, think that keeping a bunny in a little hutch and tossing it carrots and lettuce occasionally is all there is to bunny keeping. They're wrong of course, and treating a rabbit in this fashion is pretty cruel, and can even kill them. Rabbits cannot eat lettuce as a general rule, although dark lettuces such as Romaine are okay in small amounts. 
THREE: No really, it's not easy. It takes patience to be a good bunny owner. Many rabbits are sullen, aggressive, and touchy. Time, patience, and good handling can overcome these traits, but your average person, especially one who didn't want a bunny in the first place is not going to have the information or the motivation needed to work with bunnies. I've seen bunny owners rejoicing when their rabbit finally acknowledges them affectionately after a year or more of ownership. Most people are not going to want to wait that long for a pet to start to like them, even antisocial cats will often cuddle up when they are hungry, a bunny may just ignore you and run away even if you're holding food. Rabbits are both intelligent and pretty well socially developed with their own set of rules and modes of communication. How your rabbit positions itself relative to you means a lot, how it approaches you is also significant. Through research and observation you can learn to interact with your bunny in a more rewarding way, but it does take time.

The point of this article hasn't been to put anyone off owning a rabbit. It is designed to make you think about the huge responsibility that owning a rabbit actually is. All too often rabbits are seen as "easy" pets, and suitable for clumsy and forgetful children. This is simply not the case. Rabbits are excellent pets for people with patience and time, and who enjoy watching a little bunny personality blossom. They require careful handling, grooming, attention, and feeding. However, after reading all of this If someone you know really wants a rabbit and is prepared and ready to look after it, then by all means pick them up a bunny.
Here are some useful links on the subject of getting a bunny, and looking after it once you have it:
Basic Bunny Facts For New Owners                                                          What NOT To Feed Your Bunny

** http://bunniez.hubpages.com/hub/Three-Reasons-NOT-To-Give-A-Bunny-As-A-Pet  /   

Tuesday, March 22, 2016

Litter Training (video included)

                                STEP 1

"Setting up Bunny's Litter Box"
Not sure how to set-up a bunny-friendly litterbox? Learn the basics, below, and help your bunny on his way to successful litterbox training.

Plastic Cat Pan
Basic plastic cat litter pans work best for bunny's litterbox. They come in sizes small, medium, large, and giant, and can be found at stores such as Target, Wal-Mart,Kmart, and Fred's for a nominal price. We recommend sticking to the medium, large, or giant litter pans for most bunnies, unless your bunny is very tiny. However, you can't go wrong with a larger litter box that your bunny can grow into. Choosing the size of pan to buy, will depend on the size of your bunny.

If you have a pair of bunnies sharing the same litterbox, you'll want to get one very large box, or give the bunnies multiple boxes to keep them well supplied with hay and fresh litter.

Setting-up the Litter Box
We recommend using CareFresh and fresh Timothy hay to prepare your bunny's litter box. CareFresh is a bunny-safe pet bedding that does not contain any pine or cedar products, and is also environmentally friendly. Fresh hay in the box entices bunny to jump in and do his "business."
Next, add a BIG handful of hay. Here, we've spread some Timothy hay over the CareFresh, or equine pine pellets from the local co-op.

                   Stay Away From:

Keep a Fresh Box
Change bunny's box every day, to ensure a clean, fresh box. This will prevent bunny from heading to cleaner places to eliminate. If your bunny does not soil his box completely within a 24-hour period, simply add another large handful of hay to the "kitchen" end, to replenish his supply. But never go for more than two days before giving bunny a fresh litter box.
Once dirty, dump the entire contents of the box into your "yard waste" container or regular trash, to dispose. (If you're a gardener, bunny's litterbox waste makes great composte!)  Wash the box, and if urine build-up occurs in the bathroom end, pour in some plain white vinegar to soak it clean. Rinse, wipe dry, then add fresh CareFresh and hay. 
**Yes, it's pine, but HIGHLY compressed and you cannot smell pine unless you stick your nose right to it. The pellets "blossom" when peed on. No buns have desired to eat them since we have used them.

Bunnies Enjoy Their Litter Boxes
Once introduced and used to being given fresh hay in a clean box, your bunny will grow to love it! He will nibble hay nearly 24 hours a day - important for good bunny digestion - and may even burrow under it searching for the most choice bits.

Finally, it's important to remember to use bunny-safe litters in your bunny's box. Clay, or clumping litters for cats can be dangerous to bunnies who may ingest some of their litter while eating hay.  Pine, cedar, or other aromatic wood shavings may also be harmful to bunny's health. Sticking with a simple, paper-based, recyclable litter provides bunny with a safe litter and one that's also environmentally friendly.
If, after setting up your bunny's litterbox in this manner, you still have some problems with bunny using his box, try some of our litter box training tips.


I have heard good things about this as well if you have the hay in a hanging basket like some do above the litter box, this will hold tons of poop!
You can pick up the pan at a dollar-type store or order both pices for about the same price together.
Box and screen:



www.BUNNYRABBIT.com has these PVC coated wire floors made for the high back square pans, but we also use them on one end of our rectangle pans and put hay on the opposite end. The equine pellets are under the wire so bunny's feet stay clean. http://www.bunnyrabbit.com/price/groom3.htm#Litter%20Pans

They can be bought individually or with the pans. I would suggest to get all you need to make the shipping cost worthwhile. They have several other items you may be interested in to fill your order as well. (They have those small nail clippers, toss a few of those into the cart! We all need a new pair of those!)

 This is how we arrange our large litter boxes. The rubber coated wire covers about half the bottom and the rabbits stay in front of the hay to eat, so it works out really well. 


                              STEP 2

 Litter Training Bunny:

"Litter Box Training"
Rabbit litter training is generally the first thing you want to know when you have a house rabbit. It's quite easy to do, especially since rabbits are clean animals and tend to go to the toilet in the same corner or area even without litter training.

  1. Get your rabbit spayed or castrated. A fixed rabbit is noticeably less aggressive and easier to train, as it will stop wanting to mate and mark its territory.
  2.  Watch the rabbit intently when you let it out. As soon as it appears as if the rabbit is going to "go," you'll need to quickly put it back into the cage. If you get there too late, be sure to still put it back into the cage immediately and if possible put whatever mess has been made in as well. Don't lock the cage however, because you don't want the rabbit to associate the doing the toilet with getting locked in the cage.
    •  Make sure your rabbit associates doing the toilet with being in the cage; it only takes a couple of days to teach, just be sure you keep an eye on the rabbit so as to put it into the cage immediately after or before (ideally) it does the toilet.

  3. If you are going to litter box train your rabbit, get several litter boxes. Fill these with a rabbit safe product, such as paper based litter and one end with Timothy hay. Bunnies tend to eat while they 'do their business'. Before introducing your bunny to the litter box, watch it and pay attention to where it does it's business - typically the back or left/right corner. Once you've established your bunnies preferred area, place the box in that area. This will make it easier to get the message. Do not use cat litter - it is not safe for your bunny. See that the bunny does not eat the newspaper as some are not safe for rabbits, although most newspapers now use soy-based ink.
    • Hay or a recycled pet litter available in pet stores are both good choices.

  4.  Put one or more litterboxs in the cage. Put others in locations around the area your rabbit has exercise time in. The more litter boxes you have, the more likely it is the rabbit will use one of them. Extra litter boxes can be used to switch out for ones that need time to air out from cleaning.
  5. Praise the rabbit for using the litter box. Since rabbits naturally eliminate while eating, a handful of hay in the litter box can encourage good habits and reward the rabbit for going in.
  6. If you see your rabbit getting ready to eliminate outside of the litter box, try to startle it or shoo it toward the litter box. You can pick up your rabbit if he's comfortable with that, but it's better if he goes in on his own. Don't try to scold your rabbit after the fact; he won't understand.
  7. Rabbit urine can be cleaned up with white vinegar. Clean thoroughly to remove the smell, or the rabbit will urinate there again. White vinegar is also good for cleaning litter boxes. Rinse them out afterward so the smell doesn't bother your bunny.
  8. Some rabbits will leave a few droppings around areas they consider their territory. Rabbit droppings are very dry and can be easily swept up. Putting these droppings in your rabbit's litter box(es) can encourage it to use them.
  9. Thoroughly clean frequently used litter boxes at least once a week. During the week, "spot clean" by scooping up droppings and soiled litter. Vinegar will get the spots out during soaking.
  10. Once your rabbit starts using litter boxes reliably, you can alter the number or position of them as needed. If you rabbit only uses two litter boxes and ignores the others, the extras can be removed. If your rabbits ignores one litter box, but urinates in a corner three feet away, move the litter box to the corner.


  • The rabbit will lift its tail when it needs to use the "lavatory."
  • Some rabbits prefer different kinds of litter or boxes. If the rabbit was using a litterbox in her previous home, try to get a similar setup for yours.
  • Make sure the sides of the litterbox allow your rabbit to get in and out easily.
  • If your rabbit forgets his litterbox habits, limit his area of freedom. This should correct the problem. A puppy pen is often helpful in this case to block off the extra space until the litterbox habits have returned.
  • Putting your rabbit's hay in one end of the litterbox can also help since many rabbits like to eliminate while they eat.
  • Most newspapers now use soy-based ink, which is not toxic for rabbits, but always check before using it. Newspaper ink can also rub off onto your rabbit's coat, turning it black or gray.


** http://www.wikihow.com/Litter-Train-a-Rabbit
** http://bunniez.hubpages.com/hub/Bunny-Care-Guide---How-To-Litter-Train-Your-Bunny

    The Bunny Head Cold

    Runny Eyes, Runny Nose. What do They Mean? 
    by Dana Krempels


    One of the most frequent questions I am asked via the House Rabbit Society's online Rabbit Health link is, "My rabbit's nose and eyes are running. Did he catch a cold from me?" Fortunately, your bunny cannot contract a human cold, as the viruses that cause such misery in humans are not contagious to rabbits. (Note that rabbits can serve as vectors for such viruses. If you have a cold, be sure to wash your hands before you pet your bunny, lest you inadvertently share your "germs" with the next person who pets the bunny!)

    As many people are all too aware, however, rabbits can suffer from sneezing, runny nose, and runny eyes. The particular cause of this in your bunny may require a bit of detective work on the part of your rabbit-experienced veterinarian, but the following information may help.

     Upper Respiratory Infection ("Snuffles")

    Rabbits can suffer from infections of the upper respiratory tract (the sinuses and other parts of the tract that are not actually parts of the lungs), and this is usually manifested as runny nose, runny eyes and sneezing. Unlike a human cold, which is caused by a virus, rabbit upper respiratory infections are caused by bacteria. The condition is commonly called "snuffles." "Snuffles" is is a non-specific, "catch-all" term used to describe such symptoms without naming the specific cause.. Until fairly recently, many veterinarians believed that "snuffles" was almost always caused by the bacterial pathogen Pasteurella multocida, commonly found in rabbits (though often without causing any problematic symptoms at all). More recent information suggests that many different species of bacteria can cause "snuffles." Some of the bacteria most commonly cultured from rabbit nasal discharge include Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Bordetella bronchiseptica, and Staphylococcus aureus, though there are many others.
    Because bacterial species (and their different strains) have characteristic sensitivity and resistance to various antibiotics, it is worth your investment to allow your veterinarian to positively identify the pathogen (i.e., disease-causing agent) your bunny has. The best way is via a CULTURE AND SENSITIVITY test. This laboratory test is the only way to determine (1) the species of bacteria causing the infection and (2) which rabbit-safe antibiotics will be most effective at killing them.

    If your rabbit is sneezing and/or shows signs of nasal and/or ocular discharge, especially if such discharge is whitish and thickened, she needs to be seen by a veterinarian and have a sample of nasal discharge taken and sent to a laboratory for culture and sensitivity testing. Once your vet receives the results of the C & S test, s/he will be better able to prescribe the particular antibiotic (or combination of antibiotics) that should be safest and most effective for your rabbit's infection.
    Antibiotic therapy may need to be continued for several weeks, and it should always be continued for several days after symptoms have disappeared to ensure that as much of the bacterial population as possible has been killed. Follow your veterinarian's instructions carefully, and be sure to complete the full course of antibiotics, even if the symptoms go away before the medicine is gone. The reason for this? Even the most effective antibiotics might not kill some of the more resistant bacteria right away. Removing the drug too soon will leave only these particularly hardy individuals to be the progenitors of the new population of bacteria in your rabbit's sinuses, and these will be genetically better able to resist the antibiotics you have been using (i.e., the population has evolved resistance to the antibiotics). Don't stop the antibiotics early, and don't put off treatment! A seemingly simple condition such as sneezing could develop into a potentially life-threatening problem, such as pneumonia or a systemic infection.

    Lower Respiratory Infection

    A rabbit with pneumonia may show symptoms such as loud, raspy breathing, and may point his nose high in the air and stretch his neck in an attempt to get more oxygen. A rabbit in this condition is critically ill, and in need of oxygen therapy at your veterinarian's clinic. Experienced rabbit veterinarians will often nebulize such a bunny with oxygen as well as products to open the airways (e.g. aminophylline) and to loosen the mucus and infective material in the lungs (e.g., acetylcysteine solution, brand name "MucoMyst"). In some cases, the veterinarian will add appropriate antibiotics to the nebulization mix, depending on what a culture and sensitivity test indicates.

     Foreign Bodies

    In some instances, a foreign object (such as a strand of hay, or a bit of food pellet) lodged in the nasal passage has been found to be the cause of runny nose and apparent chronic nasal infection. Sometimes such a foreign body is not visible without the aid of an endoscopic examination by your veterinarian. Once the item has been located, it is usually necessary to anesthetize the rabbit to allow removal of the object without danger. In other cases, nasal polyps or other growths are found to be at the root of chronic upper respiratory symptoms. But surprisingly, one of the most common culprits causing chronic "snuffles" is undiagnosed dental problems.

    Dental Disorders and Chronic Runny Eyes/Nose

    Many people are surprised at how common dental problems are in rabbits, and even more puzzled to learn that such problems can cause symptoms such as runny eyes and nose. This is more often seen in older rabbits, as these have had time to develop molar spurs, or molar root problems that can cause inflammation or even develop into infections that spread to the sinuses. In some older rabbits, gradual onset of metabolic bone disease results in loss of bone density (osteoporosis), especially in the already light bones of the skull. When this happens, the molar and/or incisor roots can very gradually be pushed into the thinning bone as the rabbit chews.
    Because rabbit teeth grow continually, the visible portion of the teeth may appear entirely normal. It is only upon radiography that the root problem becomes visible as an intrusion of the tooth roots into the skull bones. This sometimes been called "root overgrowth," though the term is a bit of a misnomer. The roots are not actually "growing" into the skull, but are being pushed there.

    A rabbit's molars are located almost directly under the eyes. Hence, molar root intrusion into the skull bones can cause occlusion (blockage) of the tear ducts, which run through the skull bones, close to the roof of the mouth, just above the tooth roots. A blocked tear duct will cause tearing and runny eyes, since the tears cannot flow through the ducts and into the back of the mouth, where the duct normally empties. A narrowed duct is more susceptible to becoming plugged with mucus or bacteria. If the duct is not completely occluded, it is often possible for your vet to flush the ducts and help restore normal flow. Whatever discharge comes out the nose from the flush can be A rabbit's molars are located almost directly under the eye socket. When molar problems (spurs, root intrusion, abscess) develop, symptoms such as runny eyes can be a clue that something's amiss. collected and sent to a lab for culture and sensitivity testing.
    Severe molar root intrusion can also be the cause of retrobulbar abscesses (i.e., abscesses located behind the eye, inside the skull). In some cases, the root has been known to puncture through the bone of the eye socket and into the eyeball itself, causing an intraocular (i.e., inside the eyeball) infection. Such severe problems may require the expertise of a licenses veterinary ophthalmologist, and your own vet may be able to refer you to one in your area, if necessary.
    Even incisor (front tooth) roots can be pushed backwards into the skull and occlude the tear ducts. Again, this is usually visible only with radiography. Although your vet may suggest that incisor or molar removal may solve the teary eye problem, there are no guarantees. If the chronic trauma to the area already has caused enough scarring in the bone, even tooth removal may not open a blocked duct. You and your vet should confer to decide whether complete tooth removal to attempt to restore tear duct function is worth the risk.

    Alleviating the Symptoms of Runny Eyes and Runny Nose

    Runny eyes that cannot be permanently repaired via tear duct flush may cause skin burns and irritation where the caustic tears collect on the skin. It is usually helpful to apply warm washcloth compresses to the affected areas daily, to help soften the dried tears, and then gently rub them away. A fine-toothed, small flea comb may be useful in helping remove softened crusts from the fur.
    One excellent way to help a bunny with chronic runny eyes is to allow him/her to choose a spayed/neutered mate from among those at your local rabbit rescuer's foster home. Bonded bunnies spend a good deal of time grooming each other's faces, and we know of some bonded bunnies who once had very irritated skin from constant tearing who became completely symptom-free once they had mates to groom away those tears.
    A very clogged nose is definitely a problem, as rabbits are obligate nasal breathers. You can help clear your bunny's nose temporarily by gently suctioning with a pediatric ear syringe. Ask your vet about using a mild, pediatric antihistamine such as Benadryl to help shrink swollen nasal membranes. Together with a tear duct flush, which also helps flush the nasal passages, these treatments can be very effective at clearing the bunny's breathing route.
    Whatever the cause of your bunny's problem, the sooner you allow your vet to perform the right tests and prescribe the proper treatment, the better your bunny will be able to breathe easily and be on the road to better health.


    Bunny Proofing Your Home

    Bunny chewing the coffee tableIn order to protect your house rabbit as well as your home you need to bunny proof. Rabbits love to dig and chew but need to do so in a nondestructive manner.
    Providing many toys can help dissuade your rabbit from chewing on your belongings; when your bunny is occupied he/she will be less inclined to be destructive. Supervision is also key. Not only will your bunny love the attention, you can make sure your house doesn't fall apart.
    Wire protectors Wires are one of the main targets of bunnies. Their sharp teeth can slice through your wires quickly, damaging your favorite lamp or worse, electrocuting your rabbit. It is best to cover wires with hard plastic sleeves or flex tubing. These can be purchased at any hardware, home improvement or electronics store. Even better is to keep all wires out of the reach of your bunnies.
    When you look around the area your bunny will be residing in, do you see any places you don't want your bunny? Some bunnies can jump 36 inches or higher, and their curiosity brings them on top of shelves, chairs and desks.
    They are also quite adept at squeezing into tight spaces, like behind your bookshelf or under your bed. You'll need to block off these areas. There are many options for this. Baby gates or puppy-pens work well, but ideally they should be made of metal, otherwise your bunny will chew his/her way through quite quickly. Watch out that the slats aren't too far apart, however, or else your rabbit will slip right through.
    Rabbits are very curious creatures Bunnies are natural diggers and will dig anywhere they can, especially on your carpets. Any loose edges will be pulled and dug on until your carpet becomes a stringy mess. Tiles or untreated sea grass mats are good ways to cover areas that your bunny likes to chew. You can also arrange your furniture to cover spots your bunny frequently digs.
    Eating the contents of the recycle bin Molding is frequently chewed by bunnies. You can purchase plastic guards, but the best option is to give your bunny plenty of other chew options, such as natural wicker baskets and various other chew toys. See How to Deal with Chewing & Digging for more options.
    ** http://www.myhouserabbit.com/tip_chewing.php

    Houseplants can be dangerous to bunnies. Many plants are toxic to your bunny. It is best to keep any plants out of the reach of your bunny. Poinsettia, holly, tomato leaves, and tulips are among the plants toxic to your bunnies.
    By bunny proofing your house, you'll provide a safe environment for your rabbit and protect your belongings. This will make both you and your bunny very happy.
    * http://www.myhouserabbit.com/tip_bunnyproofing.php